2/17/2024 0 Comments Bird photos![]() In comparison, the Canon EF 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS USM Telephoto Zoom Lens and the Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D ED Autofocus VR Zoom Lens are approximately $1500 for 100mm less length than the Sigma. The price of the Sigma 150-500mm lens is only $800 USD (sourced from Amazon). Some awesome photographs being seen from cheaper brands like the Sigma 150-500mm f/5-6.3 AF APO DG OS HSM Telephoto Zoom Lens. It’s also important to note that the price of longer lenses are on the way down. As you can see, any lens shorter than a 400mm will mean you’ll need to do quite a lot of cropping to fill the frame with the actual bird. However for this example I wanted to show you the results from a 400mm focal length. Usually what I would do is crop the image so the bird fills the frame. For those who don’t own full frame cameras, the bird will fill the frame a little more than seen in the image below. The shot was also taken with a full frame camera. The bird is much smaller, sitting in a tree roughly 5 meters from where I was positioned. The image is cropped just slightly on both sides.īelow is another example below, again with a 400mm lens length. The bird image shown above was taken with a lens set at 400mm length, with the bird flying roughly 7 meters away from me in distance. In the very least, a 200mm lens length coupled with a 2X extender would also be sufficient. Most useful lens for bird photography is no doubt one that is 400mm or higher. With the slower models, the photographer can still use continuous shooting, however it might take a little more patience and time to get the shot they’re after. With the two faster models, a photographer can capture more frames per second when using continuous shooting. It’s just the technique or skill required that will change depending on your camera model.įor example, a Canon 5D mark III or 7D model is faster than Canon EOS 550D, or EOS 1100D. I’m a firm believer that all cameras can take great photos. ![]() The bird image below is one of my favorites from that trip.Īny DLSR camera, low or high end will allow you to capture birds. Ah, the perfect place to spend several hours at a time photographing birds. Hundreds of birds were ducking and diving into the water to score themselves a feed of fish. I recently took a road trip where I came across a lagoon full of wildlife. ![]() We have a whole free tutorial dedicated to getting the most out of your camera's Custom User Modes.Bird photography is no doubt one of the most popular genres amongst nature photographers. Why? Because then you don't even need to watch what you're doing with that mode selection dial when you see a bird in flight - just twist it all the way around until it stops – which'll be on that end setting! If your camera lets you store multiple custom modes (such as 'C1', 'C2 etc), use the last space. You can adjust settings from these saved defaults for a particular shoot if needed, and they'll just return to those normal defaults next time. Lastly, set your camera's 'drive mode' to 'continuous' (or even 'high speed continuous') so when you hold the shutter button down, the camera will just keep taking photos as fast as it can until you let go – giving you a whole set of different wing positions to choose from.įor ease of use next time - if your camera supports it - once you've dialled-in these settings, go into the menu and find 'Custom Shooting Mode', 'User Settings' or similar and select 'Register', 'Store' or 'Save Settings'.įrom now on, in the same way you'd select 'Av' or 'Tv' mode, you can select your custom/user mode and everything will jump to these 'Bird in flight' settings.For stationary subjects, I often use just one AF point for precision, but it's impossible to accurately train one point on a bird that's flapping around, so to reduce the likelihood of your focus 'slipping off' onto the background, enable several AF points (some cameras let you use the middle five, a middle zone, or for really erratic birds or if you've had too many coffees, perhaps just turn them all on).Set your focus-mode to 'AI Servo' ('AF-C' 'continuous' for some brands) so the camera is always updating/tracking the focus on the bird.Birds against the sky usually come out under exposed, so to combat this, dial up your exposure compensation to perhaps +2/3 as a starting point.Set your ISO to 'Auto' so it'll crank just high enough to enable you to use that shutter speed, no matter how low the light.So switch to Tv mode (for Canon, S mode for other brands) and dial in 1/2000th sec. The key to a good bird in flight shot is a fast shutter speed else it's going to be a blurry mess.
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